You do know that it’s pretty easy to install the ram you buy from third part memory stores yourself, yes? In fact it’s not too hard at all to install RAM in MacBook Pro 2010 models at all.
You do need a few things to start, like a clean static free work surface and a small philips screwdriver but other than some time to take your time and go slowly you can install MacBook Pro ram yourself and save yourself any unneccesary installation fee.
In fact, it’s so easy that Apple has instructions on MacBook Pro RAM installations and upgrades so it’s not just due to the fact that I’m familiar with ram upgrades, the good folks at Apple think you’re up to the task too.
The very first thing you need to do is to shut off your computer. Don’t put it to sleep but really shut off your computer. You don’t need anything to be powered up when you’re installing or replacing ram upgrades.
Then you’ll need to close the MacBook Pro and flip the MacBook Pro over and remove the bottom cover with the ten screws that are holding it in place.
Alien shooter free 4.2.2 apk hile. The installation process will take few seconds to complete. Once the installation gets completed, a new window will appear showing the successful installation of the GetApk.
Once you’ve got the screws out and put aside safely, you want to be sure to discharge any static electricity build up that might happen by touching something metal on the MacBook Pro.
With the cover off, you’ll see the RAM modules from the factory right there. You don’t have to remove any hard drives or anything. What you do have to do is push the levers that hold the factory ram out so that the memory modules pop out at a 45 degree angle and then slowly remove the ram by pulling lightly the ram out of the memory socket. Do the same for the bottom ram module too.
Now that you have empty RAM slots you’re ready to install your memory. There’s notches on the ram modules that line up with the memory upgrade sockets, so there’s really no way you can screw this up. With the notches lined up, insert the ram into the memory upgrade slot at about a 45 degree angle. You may have to push a bit as those memory sockets are designed to be a tight fit. Then all you do is push downwards on the ram so that it’s sitting flat an parallel to your desktop and the two little springs should click into place to hold the memory upgrade in.
Then just do the same again for for the second or top memory upgrade socket for the MacBook Pro – line up the notch, install the ram at 45 degrees until the ram is seated in the slot and push down until the two little tabs lock the memory module in place.
Replace the bottom with the ten screws and you’re done. Turn the MacBook Pro over, press the power button and the operating system will automatically recognize your new maximum ram for MacBook Pro.
If you’re going to go through all the trouble of installing ram yourself, I suggest buying 8GB MacBook Pro RAM and maxing out the MacBook Pro 2010.
In this guide I explain how to repair damaged keys on a MacBook Pro keyboard (unibody style).
In this particular case I’m fixing a MacBook Pro 13-inch laptop keyboard with two damaged keys but same steps will apply to MacBook Pro 15-inch and MacBook Pro 17-inch models.
I’ll take spare parts for repair from a damaged keyboard I have laying around. You can buy spare keys online.
If you have a few keys missing or damaged, it might take sense to buy the entire new keyboard instead of individual keys and use it as a donor.
By the way, in one of the following posts I will show how to replace the entire keyboard on a MacBook Pro 13″, 15″, 17″ unibody.
As you see, I have two damaged keys on the MacBook Pro keyboard.
The left arrow key missing just the cap.
The bottom arrow key missing the cap, key retainer (hinge) and silicone plunger.
You will need needle nose tweezers to handle small parts.
Let’s fix them!
STEP 1.
Remove the key cap from the damaged (donor) keyboard.
In order to do that insert a sharp object between the key cap and key retainer and lift it up.
The key will unsnap from the retainer.
STEP 2.
The left arrow key cap removed.
STEP 3.
Turn the key cap over and inspect small plastic key holders on the bottom side of the key. Make sure they are not damaged.
These holders secure the key cap to the retainer (hinge).
When you install the key cap on the retainer, make sure to seat the side with holders on the edges of the key fist.
In my case the left side of the key cap should be seated properly.
STEP 4.
Seat the side with holders on the edges of the key fist. Make sure the holders engage with the retainer.
STEP 5.
Push on the button until it snaps on the retainer.
STEP 6.
The left arrow key has been repaired.
Make sure it moves freely.
Now let’s fix the bottom arrow key.
STEP 7.
Remove the bottom key from the donor keyboard.
Inspect the bottom side of the key, make sure that holders are not damaged.
STEP 8.
Carefully remove the key retainer from the donor keyboard.
STEP 9.
Inspect the retainer. Make sure it’s not damaged.
STEP 10.
Here’s the tricky part.
Very carefully separate the silicone plunger from the donor keyboard.
Try to remove it from the keyboard as clean as possible, so the bottom side of the plunger remains as flat as possible.
You can use a very small knife to separate the plunger from the keyboard.
STEP 11.
On my target MacBook Pro one of the metal hooks was bent so I corrected the problem.
STEP 12.
Turn the silicon plunger upside down.
Apply a small amount of super glue on the plunger edges. You need the glue just on the edges.
The first time I wasn’t careful enough and the glue filled up the plunger. I had to use another one.
STEP 13.
Seat the plunger in the right position on the target keyboard and let the glue dry.
At first, I tried applying some pressure on the plunger but it didn’t work, because the plunger just kept moving around.
Finally, I just reapplied the glue and let the plunger to seat by itself for about 10 minutes without applying any pressure on it.
STEP 14.
Install the key retainer on the target keyboard.
STEP 15.
Install the bottom arrow key as we did in steps 3-5.
Make sure the key moves freely.
The keyboard has been fixed!
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I recently got a 13″ Macbook Pro (5.5) and of course need to install Arch Linux on it. So here goes a log of my install experience. I am not going to cover everything, as there is already basic instructions on the Macbook page in the Arch Wiki and all over the net.
Macbook Air Arrow Key Replacement
The basic specs are:
More details as I deal with getting individual components working…
Installation: The install went fine using the latest test iso (2010.04.19-core-i686). The only “trick” was to change the partition table from GPT format (to msdos) before entering the installer. Luckily, parted is included on the install CD so this was simple. Also, install GRUB on the partition holding /boot instead of /dev/sda. There was no need to do anything with rEFIt as many guides prepared me for, but I think that is because I did not dual boot.
The final stage is to boot the OSX install CD and run:
bless --device /dev/disk0s2 --setBoot --legacy --verbose to speed up the boot time before you get to GRUB (3s vs 20s).
Video: This has a NVIDIA GeForce 9400M card, so a pacman -S nvidia and nvidia-xconfig then we are basically good to go.
How To Install A Key On 2010 Macbook Pro Download
Screen Brightness: There is mbp_nvidia_bl in the kernel, so you think that would work but no… Any changes made to the backlight level appear to be registered (and gnome-power-manager gives me a nice on-screen indicator that changes are being made) but the brightness stays the same. The Mactel PPA for Ubuntu contains a nvidia-bl kernel module which does the job. Grab the PKGBUILD here.
Keyboard Backlight: Using pommed is supposed to make this work and it did to an extent. The only issue was roll over from almost completely dimmed to fully on that made disabling the keyboard backlight impossible. Instead, I am just adjusting it manually using:
echo 255 > /sys/class/leds/smc::kdb_backlight/brightness (TODO: write a script using this to bind the adjustment keys to.) In OSX, this would automatically come on in low light conditions but I have no idea how to approach that.
Touchpad: This “works” out of the box, although is completely broken as far as I am concerned. I quickly found out that a major touchpad use is to click with your thumb and then use a finger to select text or move/resize a window, etc. That does not work as touching your finger after the click with the thumb is interpreted as some sort of multitouch event. A patched bcm5947 module fixes this (but is a hack and is unlikely to be included upstream…). Grab the PKGBUILD here.
Wifi: It has a Broadcom BCM4322 802.11a/b/g/m wireless card. That does not work with the b43 driver, so requires broadcom-wl driver. Grab the PKGBUILD here.
Suspend to RAM: Worked out of the box. I was only required to tell xfce4-power-manager to use it.
Webcam: Used the isight-firmware-tools package to extract the firmware from the file that I remembered to grab from OSX before wiping (or perhaps used google to find…) and restart.
Macbook Pro Retina Replacement Keys
Sound: Installed alsa, ran alsaconf and everything worked. Shortcut keys required setting up.
Keyboard: Ignoring the lack of Home/End/Page Up/Page Dn keys, the thing that most annoys me is that to by default the “action” functions take preference over F1-12. I use F1-12 a lot more that the action keys. So these need to be swapped (TODO: do this…)
Bluetooth: Untested. I have no real use for this at the moment…
Apple Remote: TODO
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